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October 19, 2026 at 11:22 AM

Ride the Sun

Eb Snider
@EbSnider

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@sawatdeeka had some pictures of Montana recently. By coincidence I recently upgraded to a new phone after milking the previous one for years. There's a backlog of old photos there that I had to transfer over. Scrolling through reminded me of a motorcycle tour I did some years ago. While still in Canada I ran into a couple of uncharacteristically friendly Quebecers riding too. They had come back from Glacier National Park in Montana, and they showed me some videos and pictures they had taken. I was sold. From this little encounter I altered my route going back into the States to include Glacier Park and its featured route: Going-to-the-Sun Road. It was worth the ride. Thought I'd share.

The time of year was September. Past peak season, and when the weather can start to become unpredictable in the Rockies region from Canada down into the USA. You never know if an early snowfall could hit, but it worked out great for me. Minimal traffic was hoped for and found.

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As you can see the road is either cut or laid directly into the side of a mountain. There are multiple tunnels and the road is quite a narrow two-laner in spots. There are some selected pull-off areas. Of course on a motorcycle things are a lot easier. Among the many perks of riding it rather than driving is that you experience considerably more sensory input. You can feel the temperature changes and variations in wind more. Riders enjoy an open feeling with a wider range in their field of view. You even get a bit of water splashed on you from the runoff coming out of the main tunnel where the valley opens up and announces that you've arrived.

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But I inevitably run out of sunlight on the Sun Road and need to find a place to hold up for the night, hopefully after getting a drink and something to eat. The motorcycle I rode had great spacious side cases where you could store a pair of hiking boots and a mini pack for exploring areas off the roads that go into the park. Glacier has some rather long hikes that wind back for the ambitious. Just know that there are Grizzly Bears and wildlife in the area. I saw one bear on my ride in the lowlands area. He did not share the high road riding or taking pictures. He probably gets to see it all the time, so maybe nothing special for him.

By the time the sun had fully set, I had found a place with food and drink just outside the park grounds and socialized with some strangers — sometimes one of the highlights when doing things like this. I discovered that young Europeans would come over to do seasonal work amid the native Montanans. This was perhaps before the great migration of many Californians to Montana too. Another traveler gave me a tip on where to stay the night. He was a helpful "dirtbag," his preferred term for a certain type of adventurous, drifting young man who simply liked living life doing outdoors stuff on a shoestring budget and would not pursue the predictable planned life. He had ridden a KLR long distance and gone to Mexico, where I'm told you can flip them for essentially the price you paid or even for a small profit. Attuned to frugal living, he mentioned a close camping ground a short distance away. He said the gate was closed, but the shower/bathroom was still open and operational. So when I was done at the bar restaurant, I headed out to the place where the dirt bag tipped me about in the dark. He didn't lie. It was there. Getting the bike around the gate was not difficult.

Being late in the season, facilities were closing. In the dark I pitched a small tent close to a dark area, but a relatively short distance from sanitation. The next morning I woke up with the sun. I heard some noises outside. While getting a bottle of water and a snack amid the groggy first exertions of the day, I stumbled outside to see the following.

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The deer hanging around munching didn't seem concerned that I was there. Business as usual for them. An empty black void turned out to be a lake in the sunlight. Not bad. The facilities at the closed camp I was squatting at were still open and worked, just like my trusty dirtbag friend told me. A morning shower felt good. Helps wake you up too. On a bike you get used to temperature changes, so the nippy air didn't bother me at the time. I follow the rule that what you take in, you take out. So, in that ethos, even if you squat, one should leave everything in good order and not trash the place.

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Well, it was about time for me to ride on to the next location on my eventual trip back home. The images here are only a few views of shots of the sites you might see in Glacier National Park. But just as I had to ride out of there that morning onto the next location, I gotta end this post. So let's go out with a sunset from riding the Sun Road.

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For anyone who still rides a bike… the season still isn't over.

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Discussion (5)

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  • CHARTER MEMBER

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    sawatdeeka@sawatdeeka·1d
    Edited

    These are magnificent pictures, Eb! What a great trip you had there. And I agree that socializing with other Glacier enthusiasts is one of the high points of the trip. You get to meet people from all over the US and the world. And everyone is open and there's a cozy feel. People are just happy to be there. I do think things have changed in intervening years since your visit. First of all, September and October seem to have ticked up in the number of visitors. Maybe I wasn't there enough to tell, but it seemed like even in town here things would calm down right after school started but it seems like lately we've had a lot of fall visitors. Also, according to my sister, the visitors aren't really the same.

    Oh yes, I really have noticed that about the weather by September. When it's beautiful there, it's stunning and welcoming. As soon as the sky is cloud over and you start getting wind and storm conditions, it's bitter and hostile.

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    sawatdeeka@sawatdeeka·1d

    It looks like the lake where you woke up after camping was St. Mary's, with Wild Goose Island out there.

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    Eb Snider@EbSnider·21h
    Replyingtosawatdeeka

    sawatdeeka (View Comment):

    It looks like the lake where you woke up after camping was St. Mary's, with Wild Goose Island out there.

    Thanks for the compliment above.

    Regarding the place, it's been so long I can't remember with 100% accuracy. You likely would know better than me. I think I saw multiple bodies of water too, so differentiating one from another from my picture list becomes a little more difficult. The deer were the defining picture reference for me.

    West Glacier just out the park on the way to Whitefish also has a lake, which I think is on the opposite side of the park from St Mary's. A map shows Lake McDonald on the other side that has campgrounds as well. Either place seems like a good spot to stay for a visitor.

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    sawatdeeka@sawatdeeka·21h
    ReplyingtoEb Snider

    sawatdeeka (View Comment):

    It looks like the lake where you woke up after camping was St. Mary's, with Wild Goose Island out there.

    Eb Snider (View Comment):

    Thanks for the compliment above.

    Regarding the place, it's been so long I can't remember with 100% accuracy. You likely would know better than me. I think I saw multiple bodies of water too, so differentiating one from another from my picture list becomes a little more difficult. The deer were the defining picture reference for me.

    West Glacier just out the park on the way to Whitefish also has a lake, which I think is on the opposite side of the park from St Mary's. A map shows Lake McDonald on the other side that has campgrounds as well. Either place seems like a good spot to stay for a visitor.

    St. Mary's has that distinctive island. It's a famous photography spot. It's on the other side of the park from the West Glacier entrance, after you've gone down the other side from Visitor's Center at the top of Going to the Sun. (I won't say "east side." Maybe that's what it is, but there's also a little town called East Glacier a ways from there. It's confusing to me.)

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    Eb Snider@EbSnider·20h
    Replyingtosawatdeeka

    sawatdeeka (View Comment):

    It looks like the lake where you woke up after camping was St. Mary's, with Wild Goose Island out there.

    Eb Snider (View Comment):

    Thanks for the compliment above.

    Regarding the place, it's been so long I can't remember with 100% accuracy. You likely would know better than me. I think I saw multiple bodies of water too, so differentiating one from another from my picture list becomes a little more difficult. The deer were the defining picture reference for me.

    West Glacier just out the park on the way to Whitefish also has a lake, which I think is on the opposite side of the park from St Mary's. A map shows Lake McDonald on the other side that has campgrounds as well. Either place seems like a good spot to stay for a visitor.

    sawatdeeka (View Comment):

    St. Mary's has that distinctive island. It's a famous photography spot. It's on the other side of the park from the West Glacier entrance, after you've gone down the other side from Visitor's Center at the top of Going to the Sun. (I won't say "east side." Maybe that's what it is, but there's also a little town called East Glacier a ways from there. It's confusing to me.)

    I'll have to revisit to resolve any issues! thoroughly document the spots.

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