Namaste, Just a Little Bit Longer: A Few Days in Kathmandu, Part 2

You might not believe me when I say the macaques in Nepal are much more mannered, laid back and less aggressive than those in Vietnam, Malaysia or Indonesia. But the omnipresent stray dogs are too. I have never seen one beg for food, but frequently I saw them sidle up to people and just take a nap or enjoy a pat on the head. The culture and attitude of Nepalis regarding SOME animals is remarkable. (Goats and chickens, you’re on you’re own.) Let me get a little Dr. Rupert Sheldrake here and say there’s an unconscious connection, or understanding, in Nepal, particularly with cows and dogs. The lazy cows act a little entitled and sit wherever they want (think house cats) while the dogs know you’ll eventually slip them extra food, and they don’t have to ask.

In a city park, I watched a middle-aged lady in a bright red sari approach a big black stray. Her movement was playful, a mix of dancer and bullfighter. She moved towards the dog, teasingly, and retreated. She did it two or three times, and the dog started to mimic her. Clearly, it was great fun. He followed her to a park bench, hopped up beside her and went to sleep.

There is a sign at the entrance of that park forbidding smoking, taking pictures and “dating activities.” I didn’t see anyone smoking, but I did see some notable dating activity: a young woman in a maroon sari with a young man all in black wearing a motorcycle helmet. They held hands as they walked through the park. I never saw him take the helmet off.

I went to Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. National parks in Nepal are not only beautiful, interesting and cheap, they’re a good place to go if you would like to see pangolins, leopards, bears or cobras. It doesn’t mean you WILL see them, though. If you’re a foreigner, you have to hire a guide to accompany you. It cost me about ten bucks, and I got a guy named Vikram, who was a bargain.

After a Nepali soldier checked my backpack, we entered the park. Vikram grew up in the area, so he’s seen all the animals. But he couldn’t work magic and make them appear. So, we just had a healthy mountain/forest hike with a lot of interesting conversation about animals, trees, the blend of Buddhism and Hinduism unique to Nepal, the duties of the Nepali military, and even nationalism and globalism. Speaking of which, I didn’t see a Starbucks in Kathmandu, nor a 7-11. Vikram doesn’t want those things. He also hopes the ladies of Nepal will dress more modestly, and not “Western.” He is uncomfortable with the outside world encroaching on Nepal. A genial and thoughtful guy.

Vikram. I didn’t notice his crazy fingernail until I looked at this picture.

When I left Vikram and the park behind, I started my long walk back to the hotel. The area around the park entrance is a rough mix of relative wealth and poverty. Last time I checked, the average Nepali made about $7,000 a year.

A few quick pics to end breezily.

Here’s the pani-puri man, bringing the tang, zip and crunch to the neighborhood:

Special meat needs? Get it here.

Truckin’, just like the Do-Dah man:

Now you know why the cable guy commited suicide:

The first Western-style grocery store I have seen in Nepal. Bigger than a convenience store. Smaller than what we’re used to. Nice, clean and well organized:

My Nepal haircut tradition. (Okay, I’ve only done it twice now, but if I return, I will do it again. Why? I don’t know.)

Typical street scene. (Without sound):

Time to leave. One thing that stuck out while waiting in the airport in Kathmandu, among all the young Nepali men shouting into their phones, the jet engine noise of the electric fans, and the African guy wearing what appeared to be a plastic shirt, was the haphazardness of the application of the scenic window decals. These are beautiful pictures of the greatness Nepal has to offer, something to be proud of, and THIS is how they have been applied throughout the airport. Not cut, not smoothed out. That’s Nepal!