Visiting Auschwitz

 

My wife and I went to Poland a few weeks ago, and part of our trip was a tour of Auschwitz and Birkenau. It’s a strange experience and hard to write about.

It starts out almost too normal: our tour bus pulls into a parking lot and drops us off at a visitors’ center, where we show our tickets and pick up headphones so our guide can talk to us. It’s busy – lots of tour groups, lines of people. Just like any number of historic places you can tour. But then it’s our time to enter, and suddenly we’re walking under a gate that says “Arbeit Macht Frei.”

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I think that’s what Grozny means, in Russian. At least my Russian primer called Ivan the Terrible Иван Грозный. Anyway, the city was and still is the capital of Chechnya. I see now that I have been conflating memories of it with those of some other Caucasian polity, possibly Ossetia – stories about these places […]

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In a perfectly silly, self-satisfied way, I report now having asked twice, in Mexico, and in Spanish, “Are there earthquakes around here?” It wasn’t obvious, but I pick up on small details! In the case of Querétaro last year, a sign by a hotel elevator; the young couple who fielded my question grinned and said […]

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Reasonably wise in the ways of the opposite sex, yet still at times with a less-than-100% grasp of the obvious, I must admit, again: women do not want to tour Mexico. No, no, no. Big Bend is close enough! On the other hand, a visit to Canada is always an excellent and well-received idea. Our […]

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My Cruise

 

I was a speaker on a 20-night cruise from Liverpool to the Adriatic on the Fred.Olsen ship Bolette. It’s a mid-size cruise ship with a capacity of about 1,350 passengers. I’ve been on cruises down the Nile and the Mississippi but have never been on an ocean trip. I was one of four speakers from Past Preservers, which matches up academics with (mostly) people making documentaries. Recently, they have added opportunities to be speakers on cruises. Fred.Olsen caters to a mature audience, and its three ships each have a capacity of about 1,300 passengers. The crew was friendly and there were plenty of activities.

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Looking up whatever I’ve already written about a trip I may never take, I am pleasingly reminded what to expect if I ever do take it. If I ever do, it won’t be with, or as, a concubine! ‘Course EVERYBODY says THAT. Such “research” isn’t propelling me anyplace. It isn’t giving me useful, checkable ideas. […]

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Isolation is Grand

 

There is a lot to be said for isolation in a world fed by the 24-hour news cycle. The isolation that has come for families in North Carolina, South Carolina, parts of Georgia, Tennessee, Kentucky, and Florida is a different matter.

Good intentions and expressions of concern from pundits who couldn’t build a fire in the wild to save their own lives are not going to accomplish the job of rebuilding homes and lives. They will eventually stop reporting the story because they have never built anything themselves.

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If you’re on English Wikipedia’s Main Page and you punch in Mexico City, the first hit shown on the dropdown is of course that, with “Capital and largest city of Mexico” under it. If you type in Guadalajara, you get that and “City in Jalisco, Mexico” under it. If you input Ciudad Mier, you get […]

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The Sun Will Set On The British Empire

 

The sun has not set on the British Empire for about 200 years.  As a result of yesterday’s decision to cede the Chagos Islands in the Indian Ocean to Mauritius, this will no longer be true at some point in 2025.  The point at which the sun will actually set is somewhat indeterminate because of sunlight in the British Antarctic Territory for several more months (see map projection below), but it is estimated that a setting sun in the Pitcairn Islands will mark the date sometime early next year.  The Chagos Islands, also referred to as the British Indian Ocean Territory (BIOT), include Diego Garcia, where the U.S. has a joint military base.  It will be preserved.

With all of today’s attacks on “colonialism,” I suppose that I shouldn’t find this sad.  Still, as a descendant of some fine English stock of Empire-years gone by, I do.

Another Thing I Should Stop Doing

 

Talking to myself, aloud, in public. At least in South America, I do that mostly in English. Crossing downtown Florianópolis from my hotel to the bus terminal, I saw a girl walking in the opposite direction. She had a tattoo on her throat. I said, “Bad choice.” Then I passed an office of Banco do Brasil. I said, or rather intoned, “The full faith and credit of.” Luckily no one was there to hear that.

(And I do mean that was lucky. Brazil’s national banks – this one, Itaú, Bradesco, Caixa Econômica – all have the magic Soviet power to cause citizens to stand in very long lines for very long times. Even before they actually open in the morning.)

The worst cliche

 

A few years ago my wife and I participated in a hiking tour of Croatia. There were about 15 hikers on the tour. It was a fabulous vacation. The most memorable moment for me was when we were hiking up a steep mountain to visit an ancient monastery. Most of our group were younger and more fit than I was. As we struggled up a muddy trail in a very steamy mist that intensified the sting of sweat dripping into our eyes, we paused to take a breath on a bridge overlooking a boisterous stream. We were all too fatigued for conversation. I took that moment to declare unequivocally that if I die on this hike I do not want anyone at my funeral to say I died doing what I enjoyed.

Saying that someone died doing what they enjoyed is using the cruelest cliche of all.

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Last week, my family and I spent a few days at Quemado Lake. Some friends introduced us to the site some years ago and it’s beautiful.  We were looking for one last get away before school started for our daughter and all of her extra-curricular activities. I took US 60 for our way home, for […]

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Kyrgyzstan, By Me

 

When the night has come and the land is dark, the moon won’t be the only light you’ll see in the night sky of Issyk Kul, Kyrgyzstan. You’ll get the Milky Way, a million stars and even some random things moving around up there. I joined a small Korean group tour (as a DEI traveler who knew a couple of them) to Kyrgyzstan, and returned home a few days ago. Let me tell you about it. And let me tell you at the start, I’m no expert. And though I’ve taken several group tours, they’ve only been with Koreans.

Group tours are sold on TV in Korea, and the promotional programs can stoke wanderlust for any far-flung locale, especially if you’re watching in HD. You can save money. You don’t have to worry about logistics. And wherever you go, Korean tour groups will make sure you eat a Korean meal, twice a day on average. (Can’t control the hotel breakfast buffet.) I’m SURE that a Korean group tour of Antarctica could find a Korean restaurant there, that no-one else knows about. Not my cup of “cha” to be sure, but you win some, you lose some in a group tour.

Travel thoughts

 

Packing for travel is often more stressful than traveling. My wife and I have traveled the world for several decades, so we have learned through trial and error how to balance what we absolutely need to bring to avoid lugging the stuff around the planet that we should have known we would never need. We never check our luggage. If you check luggage your vacation is at the mercy of a vast bureaucratic system that is not your friend. Everything we think we need has to fit in a carry-on piece of luggage and a backpack no matter how long the trip is. It should go without saying that we differ on what constitutes the essentials.

We differ on shoes of course. I won’t denigrate Mrs. Pessimist’s choices but I stick to a lightweight pair of hiking boots that are waterproof and very comfortable. I only wear them for travel and serious hiking. You can recognize good hiking boots by the spots of epoxy glue that repair the worn seams. I haven’t worn them for a while, but when I tried them on yesterday, I thought, “I may sleep in these things.” I also bring simple lightweight rain gear. A camera, some deodorant, charging wires, and travel clothes that can be washed in the sink and worn the next day.

Killer B’s – Brooklyn, the Beatles, and the Botanic Gardens

 

I don’t miss work but I do miss Brooklyn.   For many years I worked at a “major international bank.”   One of their office centers was across the street from the Barclays Center … smack dab in the middle of hipster-heaven Brooklyn NYC.   And while I don’t miss the 3 trains each way to get there, the neighborhood itself was tremendous.   Entertainment, food, parks, bars, boutiques, history, unparalleled people-watching…it has it all.   But two of my favorite places are the Brooklyn Museum of Art and its next-door neighbor, the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens.  I hadn’t been there in a while.   It was a gorgeous weekend so the lovely Mrs. E and I headed to the Botanic Gardens.

The Botanic Gardens share a parking lot with the Museum, so on a whim, we decided to wander into the Museum first.   What a score!!!!   From now through August 18th is an exhibit of about 250 photographs taken in 1963-64 … the onset of Beatlemania … by Sir Paul McCartney.    It’s amazing!  They are part of thousands of photos McCartney shot during this period but were never printed before.

The States, 1978: A Preschooler’s Travel Review (Side A)

 

Back when my parents were serving in Thailand as missionaries, the expectation was that every four or five years, the family took a year-long furlough in their passport country. The time away from what had become the homeland was spent connecting with supporting churches, speaking and giving updates, visiting family, and hopefully getting rest and enjoying what the country we called “The States” had to offer.

Our first furlough was in 1978. I was four years old and retain a whirl of impressions that, although vague, are real and are anchored in time and place by subsequent conversations with my mom.

Cliffside Trails at Torrey Pines

 

My brother and I hiked at Torrey Pines last Sunday. Despite two decades in San Diego, I never knew that Torrey Pines was a state beach with hiking trails. I always thought it was a golf course. (On the other hand, I do remember my now-husband and I visiting cliffs in La Jolla at night on a triple date –1993?) Anyway, I enjoyed this new experience.  Pictures courtesy of my brother.

It took around a half hour of walking uphill to get to the trails. Then having chosen a path that meandered its way back down to the beach, we came to scenes like this. When all was said and done, we’d walked maybe four or five miles (and Danny went running for a mile and half or so on top of that). There was some rough going, especially with knee pain. I loved the sign that warned us there would be “100 stairs” before we got to the end.

The Ubiquity of US Culture

 

 We are nearing the end of our European trip (Danube Christmas river cruise) with a short stay in Budapest.  It’s a day shorter than planned as Lufthansa cancelled our Christmas morning flight to Munich so we are on the train tomorrow.  We have been walking around both sides of the river here and in Vienna and I’ve noticed kids from all over Europe wearing US themed clothing.  Little Eastern European girls in “I ♥️NY” hats.  And lots of clothing that sort of simulates US stuff – a 40ish guy had on a “Camp David Auto Repair” jacket with a big trademark logo. And I haven’t seen a single Che Guevara shirt.  I guess you need to be in the US to find young people that stupid.

I can never quite put my finger on why the American stuff is so prevalent.  Is our popular culture so ubiquitous that it’s popular with all these freedom loving Hungarians?  Jeez, wait until they find out about Buc-Eees.

Today it finally snowed – big, wet flakes so it really feels like Christmas.  Apparently the entire city shuts down tomorrow so it’s probably good that we are getting out of town.