Promoted from the Ricochet Member Feed by Editors Created with Sketch. Cities: Bangkok

 

Its proper name is KrCourtesy of bangkok.comung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.

To us it is just Krung Thep, or Bangkok. The City of Angels. The Big Mango.

You’ve heard all the ugly things about Bangkok: The dirty brothels, tacky gogo bars, and aggressive ladyboys; the gem scam, the Royal Palace scam, and the many taxi scams; the steamroom-like humidity, the sauna-like heat, and the monsoon rains that paralyze the city with floods; the gridlocked traffic, crazy driving, and dangerous sidewalks. Despite these nuisances and headaches, Bangkok is the greatest city in the world for an expat. Bangkok can be whatever you want it to be. It’s a city without limits and full of possibilities.

It can be a delicious bowl of one-dollar noodles on the street for or breakfast and foie gras and exquisite wine for dinner at some of the world’s greatest restaurants. It can be a spiritual journey through majestic temples like Wat Arun or a visit to a Hindu temple hidden away in the crowded and claustrophobic alleys of the old city. It can be a visit to the maze of marCourtesy of faranfrakthai on flikr.comkets in Chinatown to find a spare VCR part, or one of the street markets or high-end malls for that fake Chanel bag or real Dunhill wallet that you’ve always wanted.

For an expat, the song really is true. “One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster.” Bangkok is a city of possibilities. A city where you can go one-star or five-star; a city where you can live like a king on the budget of a pauper. A city with welcoming smiles and a standard of living that most can barely dream of in the West.

For Thais, however, Bangkok is something entirely different.

For most Thais, Bangkok represents hope and opportunity, but it also represents the crushing reality of a feudal society where class and family still matter more than talent and will. The bright lights and bustling streets of Bangkok offer opportunity that is rarely found in the boredom of rice-farming in the countryside. Like Manchester or New York more than a century ago, Bangkok has plenty of work available for those willing to tolerate long hours and low wages.

Many young men from the countrysCourtesy of toptravel.vnide have dreams about making it big in the city in muay thai boxing, but they usually end up as day laborers on a construction site or taxi drivers struggling to feed, house, and clothe themselves. Many women come with big dreams of modeling or finding a rich husband; most end up in low-paid retail work, or becoming domestic servants or prostitutes.

Bangkok is a city where the malls catering to the rich and famous are surrounded by open sewers and corrugated-iron slums. A city where the warm smiles of the lower classes contrast sharply with the xenophobia of the elites. Expats lead lives of tremendous ease and luxury while most locals work long hours, live in crowded apartments, and still send remittances back to poor family members in the countryside.

In all of its glory and ignominy, Bangkok is a human city. It exhibits the best and worst of human nature.

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  1. Profile Photo Member

    American Abroad,

    Thanks. It is wonderful to get an international flavor. My family in America loves Thai food. What is your dream meal? Pictures please. Maybe you will have to go to a restaurant to research things.

    • #1
    • August 10, 2015, at 12:59 AM PDT
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  2. Profile Photo Member

    I see this is your first Conversation. Congratulations! Ricochet is an expats dream too.

    • #2
    • August 10, 2015, at 1:01 AM PDT
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  3. Profile Photo Member

    American Abroad,

    If you would add the tag “Group Writing” to your post. You make a tag by editing your Conversation. After the main text box is another small text box to put tags in.

    Here are examples.

    http://ricochet.com/tag/group-writing/

    • #3
    • August 10, 2015, at 1:33 AM PDT
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  4. Claire Berlinski, Ed. Editor

    Some years of my life blend together in my mind. The year I lived in Bangkok doesn’t.

    This is a very apt description.

    • #4
    • August 10, 2015, at 2:20 AM PDT
    • 1 like
  5. Pencilvania Inactive

    A wonderfully vivid post, AA! Sounds like Bangkok could be an exciting, unique setting for a book or movie. Is there a way of translating that long proper name for the city at the top of your post?

    • #5
    • August 10, 2015, at 5:04 AM PDT
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  6. P̄om tā lôn (I am Bald Gram… Inactive

    The City of Angels, the Great City, the Residence of the Emerald Buddha, the Impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the Grand Capital of the world endowed with Nine Precious Gems, the Happy City, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.

    • #6
    • August 10, 2015, at 5:13 AM PDT
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  7. American Abroad Thatcher
    American AbroadJoined in the first year of Ricochet Ricochet Charter Member

    10 cents:American Abroad,

    Thanks. It is wonderful to get an international flavor. My family in America loves Thai food. What is your dream meal? Pictures please. Maybe you will have to go to a restaurant to research things.

    Sorry I don’t have pictures for you, but Thai food is meant to be eaten, not stared at! My all-time favorite Thai feast is spicy papaya salad (som tam thai) with grilled pork (moo yaang) and sticky rice (khao neow). And of course a couple cold Beer Changs to go along with it.

    Thanks, 10 Cents, for the encouragement you provide everyone on Ricochet. I have been on the site for years, mostly as an eager reader and infrequent commenter. It is thanks to you that I wrote my first post. I am sure that I am not alone in wanting to thank you for embodying the friendly spirit of community that is Ricochet.

    • #7
    • August 10, 2015, at 5:19 AM PDT
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  8. P̄om tā lôn (I am Bald Gram… Inactive

    Bangkok is the economic engine of Thailand, where 22% of the Thai population resides in the metropolitan area, per Wikipedia. Once outside of Bangkok, there’s still a beehive of economic activity going on, but it’s nothing like the scale of Bangkok. My wife’s family is from Isaan, or northeast Thailand, so that is where I spend most of my time, farming. Most of the people up this way earn their living from the land, in one way or another. But many of the men seem to disappear into Bangkok for a time for a construction job, then return home. It’s a hard life for many, but made easier, I think, from the very strong family ties that exist here. While I spend a few days in Bangkok every year, I find myself eager to leave. It’s always a shock to my system beiing there. I understand the allure, but it’s not for me. And don’t even think about driving in the city. I’d never before seen a corpse lying on the side of the road until Thailand. Now I’ve seen several. I love Thailand, just not Bangkok so much.

    • #8
    • August 10, 2015, at 5:51 AM PDT
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  9. Larry3435 Member

    The OP is such a wonderful description of Bangkok that it is hard to find anything to add, but I would mention that the hotels in Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong (at least when I was last there) were so far and away superior to anything that exists in the West that they should have a word other than “hotel” to describe them.

    The food I had in Bangkok should make your local Thai food place close its doors in shame (sort of the opposite of China).

    And it is worth repeating the thing about the traffic. When you look out your hotel window and see the gridlocked cars, and then look again 5 minutes later and see the exact same cars that haven’t moved, it’s enough to make you homesick for Los Angeles. It is possible to get somewhere, if you are willing to risk your life in a tuk-tuk that careens through the gridlock like the ball in a pinball game. There are even destinations worth that risk. Or you can travel on the river, if you don’t mind the smell of raw sewage.

    But I wouldn’t want to live there.

    • #9
    • August 10, 2015, at 6:28 AM PDT
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  10. Jules PA Member

    Great Post. Thank you.

    • #10
    • August 10, 2015, at 6:40 AM PDT
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  11. P̄om tā lôn (I am Bald Gram… Inactive

    AA, is this the grilled pork you like? One of my favs.DSC_1291_1024

    • #11
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:21 AM PDT
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  12. American Abroad Thatcher
    American AbroadJoined in the first year of Ricochet Ricochet Charter Member

    Bruce Hendricksen:AA, is this the grilled pork you like? One of my favs.DSC_1291_1024

    Hey Bruce, I didn’t know you were familiar with Isaan. There are a few folks on Ricochet with connections to Thailand.

    The picture above is deep-fried pork (moo tod). It is served with chili sauce (sauce prik). I much prefer the grilled variety with the spicy sauce (nam jim jaew). Photo below:

    Komuyang+Cover

    • #12
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:32 AM PDT
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  13. Profile Photo Member

    Keep the food coming. (Anyone know how to clean off a monitor?)

    • #13
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:35 AM PDT
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  14. American Abroad Thatcher
    American AbroadJoined in the first year of Ricochet Ricochet Charter Member

    Larry3435:The OP is such a wonderful description of Bangkok that it is hard to find anything to add, but I would mention that the hotels in Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong (at least when I was last there) were so far and away superior to anything that exists in the West that they should have a word other than “hotel” to describe them.

    The food I had in Bangkok should make your local Thai food place close its doors in shame (sort of the opposite of China).

    And it is worth repeating the thing about the traffic. When you look out your hotel window and see the gridlocked cars, and then look again 5 minutes later and see the exact same cars that haven’t moved, it’s enough to make you homesick for Los Angeles. It is possible to get somewhere, if you are willing to risk your life in a tuk-tuk that careens through the gridlock like the ball in a pinball game. There are even destinations worth that risk. Or you can travel on the river, if you don’t mind the smell of raw sewage.

    But I wouldn’t want to live there.

    The tuk-tuks are largely gone from central Bangkok. They can still be found around the Palace, but mostly those who want to pinball though traffic now take the mototaxis. But as Bruce pointed out, it doesn’t take too long in Bangkok before you see a corpse on the road, so I stay off of the motorcycle taxis. The solution to traffic is just to find your little neighborhood and live locally.

    • #14
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:37 AM PDT
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  15. Profile Photo Member

    I don’t understand what you mean by corpse on the road. Is this after a car accident? Is it because of poverty?

    What types of cars do people drive? Japanese? American?

    Do most people shop on foot or bicycles?

    • #15
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:43 AM PDT
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  16. American Abroad Thatcher
    American AbroadJoined in the first year of Ricochet Ricochet Charter Member

    10 cents:Keep the food coming. (Anyone know how to clean off a monitor?)

    One more favorite: crispy pork belly with Chinese broccoli (kanaa moo grob):

    kana-moo-grob-c

    My local street place does this dish perfectly, if the crispy pork is freshly made. All for the ridiculous price of $1.50, with rice and a fried egg on top.

    • #16
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:44 AM PDT
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  17. P̄om tā lôn (I am Bald Gram… Inactive

    I’m not 100% sure I’ve even tried this. The variety of food available is amazing, and I’ve found very little that I don’t enjoy, but I do have my favorites. Like salted grilled tilapia, som tum, pad kaprao moo kai dao. Since my wife is at the farm for a few months and I’m here in Chicago, this discussion is making me miss these Thai meals (and my wife). I’ve never been able to find a Thai restaurant stateside to do justice to this cuisine.

    • #17
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:50 AM PDT
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  18. Profile Photo Member

    This is one of the things that we order in the states.

    Thai+Food+in+Thailand+Pad+Thai

    It usually has a peanut taste and is spicy.

    • #18
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:50 AM PDT
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  19. American Abroad Thatcher
    American AbroadJoined in the first year of Ricochet Ricochet Charter Member

    10 cents:I don’t understand what you mean by corpse on the road. Is this after a car accident? Is it because of poverty?

    What types of cars do people drive? Japanese? American?

    Do most people shop on foot or bicycles?

    Thailand has an incredibly high rate of fatalities on the roads. It is usually motorcycle drivers driving against the flow of traffic at night who get hit by cars or trucks. Speeding and drunk driving are also major causes of road deaths.

    Toyota is far an away the most popular car brand here, but Ford and Chevrolet are making a small dent in the Japanese manufacturers’ market share.

    • #19
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:50 AM PDT
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  20. Profile Photo Member

    Bruce Hendricksen:I’m not 100% sure I’ve even tried this. The variety of food available is amazing, and I’ve found very little that I don’t enjoy, but I do have my favorites. Like salted grilled tilapia, som tum, pad kaprao moo kai dao. Since my wife is at the farm for a few months and I’m here in Chicago, this discussion is making me miss these Thai meals (and my wife). I’ve never been able to find a Thai restaurant stateside to do justice to this cuisine.

    I agree with you about the foreign country’s cuisine. I did find an exception in a small Japanese restaurant in Olympia, Washington. It turned out the cook was from where I lived in Japan. More often it is American-(whatever country) than the real stuff.

    • #20
    • August 10, 2015, at 7:54 AM PDT
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  21. P̄om tā lôn (I am Bald Gram… Inactive

    10 cents, these were all vehicular accidents involving motorcycle or moped vs auto or truck. I’ve seen 3 bodies roadside now. Mopeds are everywhere, and they often drive pretty recklessly (IMHO). Add this to the large numbers of trucks on the road, many times in disrepair (e.g. no lights at night) and the result is predictable. I’ve seen numerous, horrendous accidents with likely fatalities, but only 3 bodies so far.

    • #21
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:00 AM PDT
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  22. P̄om tā lôn (I am Bald Gram… Inactive

    Looks like this is turning into a food thread, but why not? Thai cuisine is worthy. This is tom yum, a staple available everywhere, and delicious.DSC_1296_1024

    • #22
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:06 AM PDT
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  23. Profile Photo Member

    Bruce Hendricksen:10 cents, these were all vehicular accidents involving motorcycle or moped vs auto or truck. I’ve seen 3 bodies roadside now. Mopeds are everywhere, and they often drive pretty recklessly (IMHO). Add this to the large numbers of trucks on the road, many times in disrepair (e.g. no lights at night) and the result is predictable. I’ve seen numerous, horrendous accidents with likely fatalities, but only 3 bodies so far.

    Japan has a lot of 50cc scooters. That is many people’s first vehicle. They are required by law to drive on the shoulder side of the far lane. Also they are not supposed to go over 30 kph. No one does that as far as I can see.

    • #23
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:07 AM PDT
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  24. Profile Photo Member

    Bruce Hendricksen:Looks like this is turning into a food thread, but why not? Thai cuisine is worthy. This is tom yum, a staple available everywhere, and delicious.DSC_1296_1024

    This is sweet and spicy, right?

    • #24
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:07 AM PDT
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  25. Profile Photo Member

    Have you met many ladyboys? Is Bangkok the world capital for them?

    • #25
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:10 AM PDT
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  26. American Abroad Thatcher
    American AbroadJoined in the first year of Ricochet Ricochet Charter Member

    10 cents:Have you met many ladyboys? Is Bangkok the world capital for them?

    We have two ladyboys (katoey) at work. One works in the canteen and the other as an administrative assistant. Bangkok most likely is the capital for this, especially since gender reassignment surgery can be completed here for under $10,000. So if 10 cents wants to become 10 dollars, we can make that happen in a weekend.

    • #26
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:18 AM PDT
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  27. P̄om tā lôn (I am Bald Gram… Inactive

    10 Cents, tom yom is sour and spicy I would say. Sugar is one of the condiments that’s usually provided, so it’s as sweet as you want it to be. As far as ladyboys go, no idea about Bangkok, although my brother-in-law (or is it sister-in-law?) is a ladyboy. They’re certainly a common sight in Bangkok. A game my wife likes to play with me is guess the sex. I always lose.

    • #27
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:26 AM PDT
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  28. Profile Photo Member

    American Abroad:

    10 cents:Have you met many ladyboys? Is Bangkok the world capital for them?

    We have two ladyboys (katoey) at work. One works in the canteen and the other as an administrative assistant. Bangkok most likely is the capital for this, especially since gender reassignment surgery can be completed here for under $10,000. So if 10 cents wants to become 10 dollars, we can make that happen in a weekend.

    What a way not to make a buck!!!

    Can you give gift certificates? What else do you get for the man who has everything.

    • #28
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:31 AM PDT
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  29. Jules PA Member

    American Abroad:

    10 cents:Have you met many ladyboys? Is Bangkok the world capital for them?

    We have two ladyboys (katoey) at work. One works in the canteen and the other as an administrative assistant. Bangkok most likely is the capital for this, especially since gender reassignment surgery can be completed here for under $10,000. So if 10 cents wants to become 10 dollars, we can make that happen in a weekend.

    Is there a cultural phenomenon or reason for this specialty?

    • #29
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:37 AM PDT
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  30. American Abroad Thatcher
    American AbroadJoined in the first year of Ricochet Ricochet Charter Member

    Jules PA:

    American Abroad:

    10 cents:Have you met many ladyboys? Is Bangkok the world capital for them?

    We have two ladyboys (katoey) at work. One works in the canteen and the other as an administrative assistant. Bangkok most likely is the capital for this, especially since gender reassignment surgery can be completed here for under $10,000. So if 10 cents wants to become 10 dollars, we can make that happen in a weekend.

    Is there a cultural phenomenon or reason for this specialty?

    Good question. I don’t really know.

    Partially it is due to the fact that Bangkok is perhaps the most libertarian (some would say libertine) city in the world. As such, it is tends to attract social misfits and alternative lifestyles without much question or judgement. I can easily see how ladyboys would like Bangkok. They can easily get a job here as a cashier at the local department store and live normal lives and not face any social stigma of deviancy.

    That doesn’t explain such large numbers, however. I don’t have a good explanation for why Bangkok has more ladyboys than an equally liberal city like Riyadh or Los Angeles. Perhaps some serious research has been done on this topic, but I am not familiar with it.

    • #30
    • August 10, 2015, at 8:54 AM PDT
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