Journalists are supposed to eschew reporting conversations with cab drivers in foreign countries on the grounds it's a grave journalistic cliche, one that hints that the conversation was the only one you had with the local plebes. It's a cliche for sure, but a cliche for a good reason--a taxi ride is more likely to give rise to a good "man on the street" quotes than any other daily interaction you might have. After all, you're stuck together for the length of the ride, there's nothing to do but talk. Cab drivers tend to see a lot of the city. They know what's happening on the streets. And these conversations are often unusually confessional. Maybe that's because you know you'll never see each other again; maybe it's because he's looking at the road, not at you. (Patients in Freudian psychoanalysis lie on the couch, rather than looking at the analyst: Freud theorized that it was easier to speak without inhibition if you couldn't see any reaction on the analyst's face. There's some of that going on, I think.)

Anyway, I do always have interesting conversations with cab drivers, wherever I go, which I tend to feel bad about reporting because I know other journalists will mock me. But it's worth noting how different my conversations with American cab drivers are from my conversations with cab drivers overseas. The first thing is that cab drivers here are almost always immigrants, because it's a job that doesn't require good English. They're immigrants, usually, from really crummy places. And they love America so much--every one of them. God, do they love America. Everyone else is complaining his head off about the economy, about Obama, about the Republicans, about the end of the American Dream--but they're not. They're just so damned grateful to be here.

In the past few days I've spoken to cab drivers from Ethiopia, Nigeria, Pakistan, Haiti, and they all said the same thing, they all said it so passionately and genuinely: "I love it here so much." When I asked my cab driver from Ethiopia why he was so much happier about the situation here than other Americans I've been speaking to, he said, "Americans, they just don't know. They just don't know what it's like in other countries."

These guys are usually surprised when they figure out that I actually do know what it's like in other countries. I can almost always astonish them, if they come from a country I know a lot about, by asking a question about some arcane aspect of the local political scene. The Haitian guy and I had a long chat about water purification in Jacmel after the earthquake. Long story why I know about that, but sadly I do. We usually bond a bit over this, talking about how Americans take so much for granted--the freedom, the peace on the streets, the wealth, the lack of government corruption. (Don't even say it--someone from Haiti knows the difference between what Americans complain of when they talk about corruption and the kind that results in 300,000 people dying when the ground shakes.)

In Turkey, cab drivers pretty much universally complain about the government. They're thoroughly cynical about politics. Usually the conversation trends toward a long denunciation of the entire political class. They love Turkey--as well they should--but they hate their politicians. I've never met a Turkish cab driver who believes Turkey's an economic powerhouse, by the way. One of the first things they want to talk about is unemployment and how badly it's affecting their families.

Cab drivers in France are less likely to be immigrants; they tend to be working-class men who hate immigrants with all their being and make no secret of it. If they are immigrants, however, when asked what their experience of immigration has been, they almost always sigh and say, "Dur, dur, dur." It's really hard.

I've noticed a lot of things to worry about on this trip back to America, but I was glad to find that the cab drivers still love the place. That's a good sign. When they stop saying how happy and grateful they are to be here, it's time to panic. Until then, the American Dream's not dead.

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John H.
Joined
Aug '10
John H.

I should have posted this on your thread of about a week ago, but on the subject of people loving the country they're in, I think I can say this here and now: the only thing you need to know about Mexico is that folks flee it.

Michael Tee
Joined
Jul '10
Michael Tee

You know what it's like to be tourist in another country or have read about problems in a certain country, like Haiti.

I think it takes a bit of hubris to say you know what it's like to be a citizen of that country.

Claire Berlinski

Michael Tee: You know what it's like to be tourist in another country or have read about problems in a certain country, like Haiti.

I think it takes a bit of hubris to say you know what it's like to be a citizen of that country. · Sep 14 at 5:50am

I lived and worked for seven years in Britain, seven in France, a year and a half in Thailand and Laos, five in Turkey. I nearly lost my family in Port au Prince. They were there during the earthquake. More of their friends and colleagues died there than I can allow myself to think about without going insane. In many of these countries I've been flat broke, doing menial jobs. I've personally experienced, in pretty dramatic and personal ways, what it means to live in a country where basic rights we take for granted are not taken for granted at all. Ask me about my close encounters with the Turkish legal system one of these days. I think I have a pretty good idea what it's like to be a citizen of a foreign country, actually.

Edited on Sep 14, 2010 at 5:59am
Trace Urdan
Joined
May '10
Trace Urdan
Michael Tee: I think it takes a bit of hubris to say you know what it's like to be a citizen of that country. · Sep 14 at 5:50am

Michael, dude... this is the Queen of Ricochet you're talking to... plus she kickboxes. 'Nuff said.

Claire -- I'm excited by the title of your post and looking forward to your going all de Tocqueville on us...

Okan Altiparmak
Joined
Jul '10
Okan Altiparmak

Interesting point. Rings true.

EJHill
Joined
May '10
EJHill
Claire Berlinski ...seven years in Britain, seven in France, a year and a half in Thailand and Laos, five in Turkey....

Were you restless as a child or are you some sort of fugitive from cosmic justice?

etoiledunord
Joined
Jun '10
etoiledunord

I actually was a cab driver for awhile, long ago. The most interesting stuff is not said to you directly. Very often, two people get in the cab at the airport and start discussing the meeting they're in town for, and what they're going to emphasize, and what they ought never mention, or in some cases, on their way home, "do you think your wife heard me in the background when she called? I sure hope not." And if you drive bar-hoppers around at night, you can't even repeat what you hear.

Aaron Miller
Joined
May '10
Aaron Miller

Good post, Claire.

Unfortunately, political unrest is like happiness. A person who has never been raped or shot or lost their family to genocide is unlikely to perceive life in the same way as one who has. But that doesn't mean the fortunate person cannot experience true sadness or that the unfortunate person cannot experience true joy. Some people with relatively pampered lives commit suicide, while some people who have experienced unimaginable horrors live on with laughter and patience.

Likewise, what drives one nation to ruin is not necessary for another nation's ruin. Americans have different expectations than Haitians. Even half as much corruption and misery might be more than many Americans are willing to endure. When states seceded from the union a mere 150 years ago, it was because of problems far less than many nations consider customary.

In short, yes, Americans are fortunate still today, but that doesn't mean a thing about our nation's future.


Joined
Jul '10
heathermc

Claire, that is a very interesting essay. Keep it up.

Dave Molinari
Joined
Jun '10
Dave Molinari

After traveling in crazy places myself, it's really hard to come back here and listen to the petty complaints. The number of people on food stamps and those that spout poverty statistics in the U.S. baffle me. Poverty? Most Americans don't know what that is. I don't mind the spirit of continuous improvement, but don't sell me on poverty and the tragic lives of Americans. People ask me if I changed my perspective after seeing so much social injustice in the world (code for "Why the hell are you still a conservative?"). I just say yes, I've changed. I'm even MORE of a conservative now... None of these countries are poor because of too much capitalism and the taxi drivers know that.

Trace Urdan
Joined
May '10
Trace Urdan
Dave Molinari: None of these countries are poor because of too much capitalism and the taxi drivers know that. · Sep 14 at 1:14pm

My nomination for Quote of the Week.

G.A. Dean
Joined
May '10
G.A. Dean

One of the lovely things about living where there are many immigrants, and visiting foreign nationals, is that you can get these refreshing bits of "perspective adjustment" from your neighbors and co-workers. When we make small talk complaining about this or that, they will often say something to the effect of, "you (meaning "Americans") have no idea how bad it can get."

What a blessing to live where and when we do.


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