Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
After a week which saw the judicial arm of the federal government uphold the constitutionality of same-sex marriage on states’ rights grounds, while across town the executive arm held that states do not have a constitutional right to protect their own borders, the weekend brings a welcome opportunity for a diversion and a smile. And a smile was what I found in New Orleans back in 2001.
I was sitting at the Café du Monde on Decatur Street, enjoying some beignets (French doughnuts) and café au lait (chicory coffee with a generous portion of cream). The Café du Monde sits close to the Mississippi River levee, across from the Jackson Square where the old St. Louis Cathedral is framed on either side by the Cabildo (where the Louisiana Purchase was signed), the Presbytere, and the Pontalba Apartment buildings (the oldest apartment buildings in America). Having a lifelong love affair with the city, I was basking in the scene which was made even more complete by the appearance of a street musician. Hack Bartholemew opened up his case and retrieved a shiny silver trumpet. A gifted musician, he sang with more authentic soul than I hear from any number of singers who have “made it” in the business. And when he pointed that horn heavenward, I imagined Gabriel was taking notes.
When he took a breather, I walked up and spoke with him. Hack is a minister, and an Air Force veteran as well. His very demeanor exudes goodness and genuine love for others. Years later when I had orders for Iraq, my plans in the event things didn’t work out well included Hack giving me a proper send-off with his unique version of Amazing Grace.
The bad news, in my view at least, was that since I was to be part of the force staging out of Turkey, my orders were cancelled (the Turks refused to allow us to operate out of their country). The good news was that Hack didn’t have to play at a formal service where I wouldn’t be able to hear a note. I saw Hack last year and he remembered me as, “Brother Dave.” And yes, I enjoyed more café au lait and beignets while listening to this good man open his wonderful soul to the world.
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May '10
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Now he sounds like someone I could sit for hours drinking coffee and listening to! Of course, I'd have to get up and join him in a verse or two...
Back in the 80's when I was travelling through Denmark, my friend and I were walking around Coopenhagen and came across some street musicians - a singer and a guitar player. I really enjoyed the singer and stuck around to tell her how much I enjoyed her performance. My friend then piped up volunteering me to sing with the street musicians. They thought that would be a hoot, and we ended up singing "Amazing Grace" together (I couldn't remember the lyrics to a lot of secular songs). It was pretty surreal having strangers surround us and then drop money into a hat while were were singing.
May '10
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
A wonderful rendetion of one of my favorite songs. Thanks.
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Felecia, I'm sure he'd welcome your voice into the mix. New Orleans is rich with musicians, inside the restaurants, clubs, and on the street. Interestingly, most of the street musicians also now sell their CD's on the spot. Hack has a couple of really good ones himself. He's a regular at Cafe du Monde where the trick is to enjoy the music and eat the beignets without inhaling the powdered sugar into your lungs, see? It's not as easy as it seems.
May '10
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
I'm thinking I'll have to put New Orleans on my "gotta visit as an adult" list.
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Dave, I don't know how much tv you get to watch, but you'd really enjoy the series "Treme" about a disparate group of people putting their lives back together after Katrina. It's a loving tribute to the city and filled with fantastic music played by real musicians from Nola, not actors. It'll be out on DVD soon.
I miss Nola, too. I spent a lot of time there. My musician dad remarried after my mother's passing and moved from LA to be with his love in Nola. I always joked with him that I had been a dutiful daughter who stayed close to her parents, but the minute he could grab a piece of *ss he was off. He was 78.
They had ten great years before Katrina pretty much killed him. Long, long story for another time.
And FeleciaB, my love, New Orleans was a perfect city for kids. My daughter still has fond memories.
May '10
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Oh, I was referring to going there now that I'm an adult. I've been to A LOT of places as a kid. But now that I'm a grown up, I want to see things through my big girl eyes.
Jun '10
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Speaking of memorable trumpet (and other) solos...
Miles Davis and John Coltrane - "So what" (1958)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4TbrgIdm0E
May '10
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Just watching that video makes me want to sit outside there and have a cup of chicory coffee, too. I loved the French Quarter and all its eclectic treasures.
What a neat story, Dave. Before I had children, my brother and I used to go downtown and listen to an old, wonderful man named Peanuts Whalum sing with his jazz trio. I followed him over the years from the time I first met him during college at a piano bar in Union Station. I was completely fascinated by his stories of playing with Miles Davis and Nat King Cole and hanging out with all the truly great giants of American jazz. Purely out of friendship and kindness, Peanuts and his fellow musicians played at my wedding reception. Hack looks to be the same wonderful sort...infectiously happy and as talented as he is humble.
There's a video clip of Peanuts playing with his nephew, Kirk Whalum.
http://www.myspace.com/peanutswhalum
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Denise, I don't know if you met a wonderful lady named Doreen Ketchens while you were in New Orleans. She is a classically trained musician who decided to go back home to New Orleans. I first saw her standing in front of the Cabildo on Jackson Square, surrounded by a group of talented musicians on drums, trumpet, trombone, banjo, and her husband on tuba. She pointed that clarinet straight up at St. Louis Cathedral and the crowd was simply spellbound by the energy and sheer virtuosity of the woman. I didn't know clarinets could do this stuff! Evidently she will be performing in Washington DC next month, which will clearly be the best thing that has happened inside the beltway in a very long time. Below is a video of Doreen on Royal Street (I think), peforming "Summer Time," which brings back memories because that's the song my Dad used to sing to me while driving me home from kindergarten back around the time the earth cooled.
Felicia, I have all the objectivity of MSNBC when it comes to my home turf, but I think you'd enjoy New Orleans very much.
May '10
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Wow! How amazing to be able to enjoy that much talent just walking down the street. "Summer Time" is one of my all-time favorite songs. Thanks for sharing the secrets of New Orleans, Dave. This is really cool.
Re: Amazing Grace in the French Quarter
Perhaps next week we can move on to the food, which is easily as amazing as the music. Did I mention the Rebirth Brass Band? That will have to wait for awhile. I really ought to be getting some serious love from the New Orleans Chamber of Commerce, ya know?